Blows the Wind Southerly

Our last day near Marazion and another fair day was forecast, so we surprised ourselves a little by getting out of camp by about 9:30 AM and setting off.

Our first stopping off point, by way of a little leg warming-up exercise, was to call in on one of the National Trust’s more recent acquisitions, Godolphin House and grounds. The grounds in question contain Godolphin Hill, up to the top of which Carol was intent on marching me – about three quarters of a mile. Then, of course, having marched me up to the top of the hill, she had to march me down again – another three quarters of a mile. And when I was up, I was up – and could see, through wind-induced-watering eyes, St. Ives and the north coast to one side with St. Michael’s Mount and the south coast to the other. And when I was down, I was down – and Carol went off to look at the Godolphin House gardens while I went "ooh, ah" at a reasonably impressive bluebell wood. And when I was only half-way up … well, you get the picture.

Having warmed-up the ol’ legs, we headed off to England’s (also Britain’s and, indeed, Cornwall’s) most southerly point, the Lizard. It would have been all too easy for us to dive off right into Kynance Cove, having fallen in love with the place on our previous trip, and to have walked down to the Lizard. However, so as not to get stuck in a rut, we decided to start at the Lizard and walk up the eastern side to Cadgwith, a distance of 3.75 miles.

The southerly wind whistles across the Lizard The Lizard is another National Trust area so, Carol being a member, we could park for free. (Cheapskates!) The National Trust clearly breed their car park attendants very tough because, as we stepped out of the car a particularly ferocious southerly wind blasted across England’s most southerly point and sliced through us, whilst the car park attendant sat outside quite calmly in little more than a T-shirt. Must be from Newcastle, I thought, though he didn’t sound it.

Cadgwith, source of the Old Leg Over This stretch of the coast path is quite narrow in places so we had to clamber aside occasionally to let opposing walkers pass but we made it to Cadgwith in about 90 minutes. The coast wasn’t quite as spectacular as that around the Minack but it was very pleasant nonetheless. I was unable to resist a pint of the guest beer, Old Leg Over, helped down (not that it needed any help) by a pack of Nobby’s Nuts, in the Cadgwith Inn. (What is going on, by the way? The polite young man behind the bar wanted to know what flavour peanuts I wanted. Well, peanut- flavoured, preferably.)

They should clearly change the name of Old Leg Over to Old Leg Up ‘cos my legs felt pretty spritely on the return trip to the Lizard. It had been reasonably calm since leaving the Lizard on the way up. Now, as we again approached the Lizard, we got the full force of the southerly straight in our faces once again. Very bracing! (I have to confess that they no longer feel at all spritely, as I write this.)

After a very self-righteous 9 miles, there was just time to call in to one of our favourite fish shops at Porthleven where a splendid looking Gurnard was waiting to provide us with our evening fishy feast. Another one of which Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall would approve.

2 comments on “Blows the Wind Southerly
  1. Ann says:

    I remember buying some fabulous fish in the fish market at Cadgewith. Did you notice if it was still there m’dears?

  2. JC says:

    Regrettably not – it was just a flying visit and the pint of Old Leg Over, of course. We did see that they have an active fishing fleet, though, most of which was beached when we were there.

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