Venison Wellington

This is a James Martin recipe that we like to make for New Year, assuming Aldi gets its excellent Venison fillets. This uses genuine mushroom duxelles, instead of a mushroom paté, to coat the fillet so it would be worth doing as a more traditional Beef Wellington, though the timings would need a little adjustment.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 50 mins
cooking time: 90 mins

Ingredients

  • 700g loin of venison, trimmed
  • olive oil
  • 1½ tbs English mustard
  • 50g buter
  • 1 large banana shallot, finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 400g chestnut mushrooms, very finely blitzed
  • 1 tbs thyme leaves, chopped
  • 1 tbs parsley, chopped
  • 2 tbs brandy
  • 12 slices prosciutto
  • plain flour (for dusting)
  • 375g butter puff pastry
  • 2 egg yolks, beaten
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Firstly, dry the venison with kitchen paper, then season well. Heat the oil in a frying pan and sear the meat all over for about 8 mins. Brush with mustard, leave to cool, then chill for 20 mins. Reserve any juices for the gravy.

Now the duxelles. Melt the butter and soften the shallot and garlic. Add the mushrooms, herbs and seasoning, and cook for 10 mins until you have a paste-like mixture. Add the brandy and cook until it’s evaporated. Leave to cool.

Assemble the Wellington, part 1. Overlap 2-3 sheets of cling film on a clean surface and lay the prosciutto in 2 rows, slightly overlapping each slice. Spread the cooled mushroom paste all over the prosciutto, creating a thin, even layer. Place the fillet in the centre of the mushroom mixture. Using the edge of the cling film, carefully draw the layer of prosciutto and mushroom around the meat. Roll into a sausage shape, twisting the ends of the cling film as you do, to form a tight log. Chill for 30 mins to firm up.

Assemble the Wellington, part 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry to a rectangle a little larger than a magazine, and trim the edges to neaten. Carefully unwrap the prosciutto parcel and lay in the middle of the pastry. Fold over the bottom half of the pastry. Lightly brush the rest of the sheet with beaten egg. Roll the whole thing around the meat to encase. Neatly fold under the shorter edges to create a parcel. Transfer to a baking sheet and, using your hands, smooth the pastry around the meat, pressing it firmly to avoid any air being trapped. Brush the pastry all over with beaten egg yolk. Chill for at least 30 mins or up to 24 hrs.

When ready to cook, heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Using the back of a knife, mark the pastry, being careful not to cut all the way through. Lightly oil a non-stick baking tray and heat until hot. Put the wellington on the tray and bake for 30 mins (35 mins for well done). Remove from oven, brush with extra egg and rest for 20 mins.

To make venison gravy, melt a large knob of butter in a medium pan, add 1 finely chopped shallot, 1 crushed garlic clove and 1 thyme sprig, and cook until soft. Add 1 tbsp flour, brown for about 1 min, then pour in 250ml Port and reduce by two-thirds. Add 400ml beef stock and any reserved juices from the venison, then reduce again by two-thirds until syrupy. Season, add 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly, if you like (I don’t), and strain before serving.


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Champagne Cocktail

In my view, the greatest movie ever is Casablanca. I’ve watched it so many times I can pretty much recite the script. There was, however, one memorable component that I needed a recipe for, the Champagne Cocktail as ordered by Victor Laszlo, played by Paul Heinreid.

At long last I intend to try it on New Year’s Eve, 2023. The true recipe (as here) includes a sugar cube which, in deference to a spot of type 2 diabetes, I will be omitting. Mine has a Spanish twist, using Spanish brandy and Spanish Cava, as opposed to the much more expensive French ingredients.

Planning

serves: 1
preparation time: 2 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 1 sugar cube
  • ¼ tsp Angostura bitters
  • 10 ml Cognac/brandy
  • 75 ml COLD Champage/Cava/Prosecco
  • strip of orange peel

Method

Put the sugar cube on a small dish and drizzle with the bitters, turning a few times to coat all sides. Drop the cube into the bottom of a Champagne flute. To avoid the sugar, just shake a few drops of the bitters directly into a Campagne flute. Add the brandy then slowly pour in the fizz.

Pare a strip of orange peel, give it a twist and add it to the glass.


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Posted in Drinks Tagged with:

Sweet Potato Chips

I have to say that I am generally not a big fan of Ottolenghi. This may be because he seems stuck in one or two flavour ruts which don’t appeal. One rut is za’atar, which just doesn’t do it for me. The other is sumac, which has a citrus note that I simply don’t care for. The latter features in his Sweet Potato Chips recipe, so I omitted it. The remaining ingredients work very well, particularly the addition of polenta.

I like to serve these, instead of frîtes, with Moules Marinière, along with mayonnaise for dipping.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 30 mins

Ingredients

  • 2 large sweet potatoes (~1.2kg)
  • 30g fine polenta
  • 1 tbs sweet smoked paprika (pimenton)
  • ½ tsp hot smoked paprika (or cayenne)
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • Maldon sea salt
  • olive oil

Method

Heat the oven to 220°C fan.

In bowl mix together the polenta, sweet and hot smoked paprikas, and 1 teaspoon Maldon salt.

Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into roughly 1cm chips. In a large bowl, toss together the chips with a few darn good glugs of olive oil. Crush in the garlic and mix well. Now throw in the polenta/spice mix and stir to distribute as evenly as you can. This can sit for a while.

When ready to cook, line a roasting tin with something non stick like a “teflon” sheet or baking parchment. Spread the chips out in the lined roasting tin and pop them in the oven. After 15 minutes, remove the chips from the oven and turn them over. Since all ovens vary, check progress with the heat of yours and adjust if necessary. Return the chips for a further 10 or 15 minutes.


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Posted in Veggies Tagged with:

Savoy Cabbage with Caraway

I think my long-standing opinion of caraway seeds may have been (dis)coloured by Kümmel, a caraway flavoured liqueur, or possible Seed Cake from a grandmother or two. Given that I like most things alcoholic, you can definitely keep the Kümmel.

However, recently I dragged up a distant memory of using caraway seeds with cabbage and, Savoy Cabbage being my favourite cabbage, whilst being simplicity itself, this recipe actually worked quite nicely. I served it alongside good ol’ Beef Goulash since reducing my carbohydrate intake was making me avoid the noodles that I’d kill for.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • ½ large Savoy Cabbage, trimmed & shredded
  • olive oil
  • 1 banana shallot, halved & sliced
  • 2 tsp caraway seeds

Method

Boil the cabbage in salted water for 3 mins until tender, then drain.

Heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over moderate heat and add the shallot. Cook for 2-3 mins until starting to soften. Mix in the caraway seeds and cook for a further 2 mins until fragrant. Stir in the cabbage and heat through.


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Lentil Soup

Red split lentils have a wonderful, natural peppery flavour which, IMO, should be the dominant flavour of Lentil Soup. Hence, this is little in the way of recipe and more of a note about quantities.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: n/a
cooking time: 50 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 ltr light, homemade chicken stock
  • 150g red split lentils
  • Salt & pepper

Method

The culinarily fastidious may wish to rinse the lentils first but note that these do not need soaaking, unlike many dried pulses.

Tip the (rinsed) lentils into the chicken stock in a suitably sized saucepan and bring gently to the simmer, stirring occasionally to stop the lentils sticking to the bottom of the pan. Simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Red split lentils disintegrate, retaining just a little texture, so blitzing isn’t really necessary but if you want a perfectly smooth finished soup then use a stick blender. Adjust the seasonong. I use only salt because of teh natural pepperiness of the lentils.


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Posted in Soups Tagged with:

Devilled Kidneys

OK, I admit it, I’m an offal fan. There is something alluring about the idea of this traditional old English breakfast dish so here’s one to try. Recipes vary greatly; this version is the Guardian’s approach. Naturally, the spice can be adjust to suit your personal palate. (I’m tinkering with the idea of using a hot, and I do mean hot, chilli sauce instead of cayenne.)

I don’t really do cooked breakfasts, normally, but this is easy enough and tasty enough to make a decent light lunch or a starter for your more adventurous guests.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 lambs’ kidneys
  • 2 tbsp flour, seasoned
  • 25g butter, softened
  • ½ tsp cayenne pepper
  • ½ tsp mustard powder
  • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tsp anchovy essence, or 2 anchovies, mashed
  • 2 thick slices bread
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Remove the suet from around the kidneys if necessary, along with the thin membrane that might still encase them. Slice in half laterally, so they retain their kidney shape, and use a pair of scissors to snip away the membranes that attach the white fatty core to the meat. Dust in the seasoned flour.

Mash the butter with the other ingredients, and adjust to taste.

Heat a small frying pan, then add the butter. Turn down the heat to medium. Shake the excess flour off the kidneys, then cook them for two and a half minutes on each side. Meanwhile, toast the bread.

Serve the kideys and juices atop the toast as a traditional breakfast or lunch.


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Posted in Starters Tagged with:

Kefta Mkaouara

I’m a big meatball fan and a big tagine fan, so how could a Moroccan meatball tagine fail to please?

The “ou” in Mkaouara is a sort of “w” sound and I’ve seen this written as Mkawara. Similarly, I’ve seen a “q” instead of a “k” resulting in Mqawara. There’re almost as many spellings as there are variations in the recipes. The spices vary considerably, some using regular paprika or smoked paprika (pimenton – maybe to fake out the charcoal on which the tagines might traditionally be cooked). Some spice up the tomato sauce while others leave it plain. Some include a vegetable in the sauce. I’ve even seen the eggs finally poached on top declared as optional.

I like spice in my sauce and the one I tried in the Little Marrakech restaurant in St. Albans had peas in the sauce so I use them, too. Besides, it’s a veggie unit. Clearly you can modify to your heart’s content but here’s my starting position.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time:

Ingredients

  • 400g lamb mince
  • 1 onion, finely chopped or grated
  • 2 cloves garlic, grated
  • 3 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
  • 3 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
  • 1 tsp paprika
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • ½ tsp hot paprika/cayenne
  • ¼ tsp black pepper
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 1½ tsp paprika
  • ¼ tsp hot paprika
  • 1½ tsp cumin
  • 400g tin chopped tomatoes
  • 200g frozen peas
  • 1 tsp honey
  • 2 tbs fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 2 tbs fresh coriander, finely chopped
  • 4 eggs
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Make the meatballs. Combine all the ingredients from lamb mince down to and including the egg yolk in a mixing bowl. Knead the mixture together for a minute or two with your hands until the seasoning is evenly distributed. Take small portions of the mixture and shape into small meatballs; aim for something roughly the size of a cherry. [Moroccan meatballs are a modest bite-size, presumably to make them easy to eat by picking up with flatbread.] Cover and set aside.

It is said that small meatballs don’t need browning first but I like to. In a tagine, skillet or shallow casserole (one with a lid), lightly brown the meatballs on all sides in olive oil. Remove them from the pan and set aside. In the same pan, sauté the chopped onion for a few minutes – there should be enough oil and lamb fat remaining – until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and sauté gently for another minute or two. Stir in the spices (two paprikas and cumin) then add the tinned chopped tomatoes. Add the honey and chopped herbs, stirring to mix well. Lastly, return the meatballs to the pan, stirring to coat them in sauce. Cover the pan and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Stir in the peas and adjust the seasoning to taste. Break the eggs on top of the stew, turn the heat down to low then cover the pan and simmer gently until the eggs are cooked to your liking.

Go with tradtion and serve with some flatbreads or you could try some couscous.


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Pintade aux Brugues

A Guineafowl recipe developed in and therefore named after a campsite in France: Les Brugues at Fanjeaux. This is a simple concoction featuring the flavour of shallots in a sauce based on dry rosé wine with the addition of a little wholegrain mustard. The flavour of the shallots is important so do not be tempted to add garlic. Scaling up to serve 4 would be a simple matter.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 20 mins

Ingredients

  • olive oil
  • 2 large banana shallots, peeled
  • 2 guineafowl breasts, skinned
  • 200ml dry rosé wine
  • 1 tsp wholegrain mustard
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Halve the shallots lengthwise then cut into slices about 3mm thick. Sauté these in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil until they just begin to turn golden, then remove them and set aside.

Brown the guineafowl breasts in the onion oil on both sides then lower the heat, cover and cook gently for 10 minutes. Set the breasts aside, leaving the accumulated liquid in the pan.

Return the shallots to the pan with the wine and mustard, stirring to mix. Raise the heat a little and simmer to reduce and concentrate the flavours. You are looking for a light emulsion to form with the oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Return the breasts, basting them with the liquid, then cover and simmer to reheat.


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Halloumi with Black Seed Honey

Halloumi a weird cheese: it’s rubbery when cold and uncooked and doesn’t melt when cooked. This proved a popular way to use it. The quantity here would make a starter for four served alone. Half this recipe would make a good addition to a mezze plate with other bites of interest.

The Black Seeds of the title are nigella seeds which I managed to source at Waitrose. The original of this specifies Urfa chilli flakes so use those if you can get them; I deseeded a dried red chilli and used that.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: 8 mins

Ingredients

  • 100g runny honey
  • ½ tsp nigella seeds
  • ½ tsp coriander seeds
  • ½ tsp chilli flakes
  • black pepper, a pinch
  • olive oil
  • 1 lemon, zest & juice
  • 2 blocks Halloumi, ~250g each

Method

Dry fry the coriander seeds in a small frying pan to develop the aroma a little. Preferably in a spice grinder or with a pestle and mortar, blitz or crush the nigella seeds, coriander seeds, chilli flakes and black pepper together as a powder. Stir the spices into the honey and set aside.

Cut each Halloumi into four thick slices.

When you’re ready to eat, heat a little olive oil in a frying pan and fry the halloumi slices for 3 or 4 minutes on each side until golden and crisp. I found a quite gentle heat was required.

To serve, plate the Halloumi slices and drizzle with a little lemon zest and juice. Pour over the honey and spice mixture, which will probably need warming in a hot water bath to make it pourable.


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Posted in Starters Tagged with:

Stuffed Mushrooms

I am very fond of making Sea Bass with a Black Olive Crust. In ensuring that I have have sufficient crust mixture to cover the fish fillets, I usually end up with some left over. This recipe grew from wanting something constructive to do with the left over Black Olive Crust mixture.

Recently I have been using some white sourdough bread for the crumbs; the texture remains loose rather than clogging together, which makes for a lighter result. Mushrooms contain plenty of moisture so can resist baking in the oven without assistance.

It really did seem to work very well as a lunch using large Portobello Mushrooms and, of course, would be admirable as a starter. This would also be great as part of a tapas spread or a even a mezze platter, though you might then find smaller mushrooms more appropriate.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 slices sourdough bread, crusts removed
  • 8 black olives, pitted & finely chopped
  • 1 tbs fresh parsley, chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • 50g butter
  • juice of ½ lemon
  • olive oil
  • 4 Portobello mushrooms, peeled & stalks removed
  • Salt & pepper

Method

First make the black olive breadcrumb mixture. Blitz the bread into breadcrumbs, preferably in a food processor and turn it out into a glass bowl. Stir in teh finely chopped olives followed by the chopped parsley. Crush or finely chop the garlic clove and add it to the breadcrumbs together with a few twists of salt and pepper, then stir all together to mix well.

Heat the butter in a small frying pan to make a beurre noisette. When it is nicely nutty brown, turn off the heat and add the lemon juice to stop it cooking further. Pour the beurre noisette into the breadcrumb mixture and mix well with a spatula. If your bread is like mine, it won’t bind together too much. Let the mixture cool.

Once the mixture is cool, drizzle a little olive oil into the cap of each mushroom before spooning in a generous amount of filling. You can do this all ahead of time.

When you are ready to cook, heat the oven to 220°C/gas 7. Sit the mushrooms on a bakiing tray with a small drizzle of olive oil beneath each one. Bake for 10 minutes when the crust should have turned an attractive light golden colour.


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Posted in Starters, Tapas Tagged with: