Chilli con Carne

A classic blast from my past and still one of my favourite week day winter feasts. Why stop making tasty meals just because fashions change?

This will vary considerably from what might be considered a norm because it is based on a recipe my late lamented mother received and then interpreted. That happened in the 1960s when British food supplies were a little different; I suspect the peppers should have been red rather than green, for starters. In half this quantity, my mother also chucked in 2 tablespoons of hot Rajah brand chilli powder, which I think should’ve been mild chilli powder for flavour rather than heat. (I discovered this many years later on a trip to San Francisco.)

I’ve since modified my approach, tending to use fresh red chillies, though powder, or course, still works – add it to taste. I also now add a couple of star anise based on the eminent Mr. Blumenthal’s approach. I prefer to make this with dried rather than canned beans but, if time is pressing, go ahead and take the short cut; it will reduce the cooking time by a couple of hours. This is also a large volume recipe (I tend to eat some and freeze some) but, given the quantitites, it can easily be halved. Naturally, you should adjust the chilli content (how many, seeds or no seeds, powder instead) to suit your personal preferences.

For some variations, try using minced pork instead of beef and/or black turtle beans in place of the red kidney beans. Black beans cook considerably faster than red kidney beans so keep checking after about 2 hrs simmering.

Planning

serves: 8 – 10
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 4 hrs

Ingredients

  • 500g dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight
  • 2 tbs oil
  • 2 large onions, halved and finely sliced
  • 2 green peppers, deseeded and sliced
  • 6 medium hot red chillies, chopped
  • 6 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 2 tbs cumin seeds, lightly dry toasted and crushed a little
  • 2 star anise
  • 1 kg ground beef
  • 4 tbs mild chilli powder
  • 1 tbs ground paprika
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 3 400g tins plum tomatoes, chopped
  • salt

Method

Drain the soaked kidney beans, put them in a large casserole, cover them well in fresh water and boil them rapidly for 10 mins. (This is said to remove toxins from the skins.) Drain them again and reserve.

Clean out the large casserole and heat the oil over moderate heat. Add the onions together with the star anise. Sweat the onions until they begin to soften, stirring frequently. Now add the green peppers, stir, and sweat them until they soften also. Stir in the chillies, garlic and cumin seeds and cook for about 2 minutes more. Add the ground beef and continue to cook, stirring frequently to break up the beef and brown it. Stir in the mild chilli powder, paprika and black pepper and stir this into the beef and vegetable mixture. Add the tomatoes along with about half a can of water and the red kidney beans. Stir all together. (On no account be tempted to add salt at this stage – it will toughen the beans.) Bring everything to a simmer, reduce the heat to very low, cover the pan and simmer it, stirring occasionally, for about 3 hours unti the beans are tender.

Once the beans are tender it is safe to add salt. I’d suggest about a tablespoon; I know, sounds a lot – this is a large volume – so do your own thing. Stir and cover again and cook for about a further 30 minutes to allow the salt to develop the flavours.

I’m a fan of rice with this, particularly Camargue Red rice if you can find it. It seems to me to be a pleasant equivalent of brown rice (which I personally don’t particularly like).


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Chicken Tagine

On a visit to Uzès in France one year, we ate lunch at a Moroccan restaurant serving tagines. I became completely hooked and tagines have become a regular part of our diet. Preserved lemons are, in my view, so essential that I’d suggest cooking something else if you don’t have them. (They are easy to make yourself, requiring little more than time.) This is my version of tagine using chicken.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 1¼ hrs

Ingredients

  • 1 medium sized chicken
  • olive oil
  • 2 tbs plain flour
  • 1 tbs ground coriander
  • 1 tbs ground cumin
  • salt & pepper
  • 2 medium onions, chopped
  • 10 fl oz water
  • 1 stick cinnamon
  • 250g cooked chick peas (or 1 can, if you must, drained)
  • 400g sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
  • 1 preserved lemon

Method

Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas 2.

While the oven is heating, butcher the chicken. Remove the skin and bone from the breasts and legs (just joint the wings). (Make chicken stock from the carcass.) Cut the chicken meat into large-bite-size pieces.

Fill a large polythene bag with the flour, coriander and cumin and add several grindings of salt and pepper. Put the chicken pieces into the bag and clamp the top keeping as much air in the bag as possible. Now shake the lot to coat the chicken with the seasoned flour. Tip everything out onto a plate reserving the excess flour which will be used later.

Shake excess flour from the chicken pieces before browning them in the olive oil. As they brown, remove them to a tagine (a lidded casserole will do as a substitute). Once all the chicken has browned, add the onion to the same oil and fry over medum heat to soften. Lower the heat and stir in the remaining seasoned flour. Cook this gently for a couple of minutes to develop the flavours. Stirring all the time, add the water, increase the heat a little and bring to the boil. Pour this over the chicken and add the cinnamon stick. Cover and bake in the oven for 40 minutes.

Remove the tagine from the oven and stir in the chick peas and sweet potato dice. Return it to the oven for a further 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, chop the preserved lemon (skin only – discard the flesh) into small chunks. After the 25 minutes, remove the tagine and stir in the preserved lemon. Return the tagine to the oven for a final 10 minutes to develop the flavour of the preserved lemon.

Serve this with some Herbed Couscous.


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Chicken Green Curry

In Thailand, I kept trying other meals but I kept returning to their well known green curry. The term curry is something of a misnomer being borrowed from Indian cuisine by the British. The Thai name refers to a spice paste made from green chillis. This recipe is a development of a green curry by Nigel Slater.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 1 hr mins
cooking time: 45 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 fresh lemongrass stalks
  • 6 medium-hot green chillies
  • 3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  • 5 cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
  • 2 shallots, peeled and chopped
  • 4 tbs fresh coriander, chopped
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • zest and juice of 1 lime
  • 1 tbs Thai fish sauce
  • ½ tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 free range chicken
  • 3 tbs groundnut oil
  • 8 – 10 Thai aubergines
  • 400 ml tinned coconut milk
  • 400 ml home-made chicken stock
  • 8 lime leaves
  • 1 tbs Thai fish sauce
  • 1 tbs brined green peppercorns, drained
  • ~20g basil leaves, shredded
  • ~20g fresh coriander, chopped

Method

First, make the green curry paste. Slice the lemongrass as finely as you can. According to preference, with or without the seeds, chop the green chillies. Place the lemongrass and chillies, together with the other ingredients down to and including the black pepper, into a food processor. Blitz this lot together, scraping down the sides regularly, until you have a thick paste. (You can add a little water to help slacken it if necessary.) Cover and refrigerate this until you need it.

Butcher the chicken. Remove the skin and bone from the breasts and legs (just joint the wings). Cut the chicken meat into bite-size pieces. Lightly brown the chicken in the groundnut oil, then drain and reserve. (Make chicken stock from the carcass and bones.)

Wash, trim and quarter the Thai aubergines, then quickly fry them in the pan you used to brown the chicken. Add the coconut milk, stock, lime leaves, four heaped tablespoons of the chilli paste, fish sauce, peppercorns and half the chopped herbs. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 10 mins. Return the chicken to the pan with two more tablespoons chilli paste, stir and simmer for a further 15 mins stirring occasionally. Stir in the remaining herbs and serve with boiled Thai fragrant rice.

(If you can’t get Thai aubergines, about 200g fine green beans would be a suitable, reasonably authentic substitute – they are like the Thai long beans. In this case, don’t fry off the beans, just wash them and cut them into about 3 cm lengths, then add them to the curry along with the chicken.)


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Charcoal Roasted Duck

Normally I’d call this “barbecued” but, since this requires indirect cooking in a kettle barbecue, “charcoal roasted” seems to be a more accurate description. This is simply a pleasant way to cook a duck so the fat runs out and the skin goes crisp (we hope). It should look after itself for two hours so go for a relaxing walk in the sunshine while it cooks gently and you work out what veggies to have with it.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 2 hrs

Ingredients

  • 2 – 2½ kg duckling
  • salt & pepper

Method

First of all, fire up the charcoal. I use a charcoal funnel and it takes about 30 minutes to burn up.

While the charcoal is burning up, slash the duck’s skin into a diamond pattern; about 1cm between the slashes. Try not to cut through the fat layer to the flesh but do go through the skin. Remember to do the sides and underside of the duck and not just the top.

When the charcoal is ready, tip it into the side rails/bins of your kettle barbecue and place a drip tray in the centre. Season the duck well with salt and pepper nd put it in the centre of the barbecue over the drip tray. Cut the air controls back to about a third to keep the temperature a little lower to cook the duck gently and allow the fat to run.

Go for a walk in the woods or along the canal for about 1½ hours. This will give you time to prepare some veggies after your return and before you rescue the duck after cooking for 2 hours.


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Cassoulet II

For years I’ve been cooking a cassoulet recipe from the Roux Brothers’ French Country Cooking. Then, up pops my fish hero upstart, Rick Stein, with his French Odyssey containing a recipe that is much simpler, probably more like a typical example of the dish from Castelnaudary and, in my estimation, slightly better. (The parsley is my addition – a nod to the more complex version.)

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 1 month!
cooking time: 2 hrs

Ingredients

  • 500g dried haricot beans, soaked overnight & drained
  • 250g home-salted belly pork (petit salé)
  • 4 Toulouse sausages
  • 1 medium onion, peeled & chopped
  • 1 bouquet garni (leek, celery, thyme, bay)
  • 6 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 tbs goose or duck fat
  • 2 preserved duck legs (duck confit), divided at the joint
  • salt
  • 25g fresh parsley, chopped (optional)

Method

Preheat the oven to 175°C/gas 4. Cut the belly pork into thick slices then halve each slice crosswise.

Heat the duck fat in a flame-proof casserole large enough to hold all the ingredients. Add the onion and fry gently until softened but not brown. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the beans and the belly pork, cover with about 1 litre of fresh water and push in the bouquet garni. Bring to the boil skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Now cover with the lid and bake it in the oven for about 1 hour or until the beans are tender. (This depends upon the age of the beans but it worked in this time for me.) Keep an eye on the water which may all get absorbed by the beans – top up if necessary.

Meanwhile, brown the Toulouse sausages either by grilling, griddling or frying (in duck/goose fat – the most authentic approach). Lift them onto a board and cut each diagonally into three.

Remove the cassoulet from the oven and increase the temperature to 220°C/gas 7. If you are using it, stir in the parsley now. Add the sausages and the pieces of duck confit pushing them down into the beans. Return the casserole to the oven uncovered and cook for a further 45 minutes or until the liquid has reduced and the cassoulet is covered in a dark golden crust.

Traditionally, this should be served straight from the casserole at the table.


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Cassoulet

This must be one of the classic carnivore fests – large quantities of various meats buried in meltingly tender haricot beans. (The other carnivore fest is Choucroute Alsacienne which has large quantities of meat buried in sauerkraut.) Start your Cassoulet a month early by preserving your own duck! I have adapted this recipe from a Roux Brothers recipe, largely to assist with some of the more difficult-to-find ingredients.

Planning

serves: 6 – 8
preparation time: 1 month!
cooking time: 4 hrs

Ingredients

  • 500g dried haricot beans, soaked overnight
  • lamb – 2 neck fillets or ½ shoulder
  • 500g pork – belly or shoulder
  • 6 Toulouse sausages
  • 200g fresh pork rind
  • 1 large carrot, peeled
  • 1 medium onion stuck with 2 cloves
  • 1 bouquet garni
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 10 black peppercorns, crushed
  • 2 tbs goose or duck fat
  • 150g tomatoes, skinned, deseeded & chopped
  • 25g fresh parsley
  • 50g dried white breadcrumbs
  • 2 preserved duck legs
  • salt

Method

Bone any of your chosen meat cuts that require it. Cut the pork and lamb into chunks of about 3 cms. Roll the pork rind into a sausage shape and tie with kitchen string.

Drain the beans, put them in a large casserole and cover with plenty of clean unsalted water. Add the whole peeled carrot, the onion, bouquet garni, crushed peppercorns and halved garlic cloves. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer gently. Skim the surface as necessary. After 20 mins, put in the pork rind and continue to simmer.

Meanwhile, heat the duck fat in a frying pan and quickly brown the lamb in it on all sides. Remove the lamb to a plate and sear the Toulouse sausages in the fat also, just to give some colour (they will be cooked later). Remove the sausages and save them alongside the lamb.

When the beans have been cooking for one hour, add the pork chunks and tomatoes. Continue to simmer, keeping the beans covered with boiling water.

When the beans have been cooking for 1½ hours, add the lamb chunks and continue simmering.

When the beans have been cooking for 2½ hours, add the browned Toulouse sausages and simmer for another 30 mins.

Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas 2. After 3 hours, teh beans should be melting and the meats succulent and tender. Discard the carrot, onion and bouquet garni. Remove the pork rind and reserve. Now salt the beans to taste.

Mince the pork rind (or process in a blender). Mix in the parsley and breadcrumbs. Slice any very large pieces of meat in the cassoulet and cut the sausages into chunks. Shred the preserved duck legs and stir them into the cassoulet. Spread the breadcrumb mixture over the top and bake in the oven for about 45 mins. A crust should form. Serve it straight from the casserole, perhaps with a green side salad.


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Carrot and Orange Soup

In my opinion, carrots can be a fairly tedious vegetable; colourful and indispensable for stocks and coleslaw but then life can get dull. I don’t really know why, probably a colour thing, but I tried combining carrots with orange in this soup to liven them up a tad. It’s very pretty and I think it works.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 50 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 12 oz carrots, peeled and sliced
  • 2 oz butter
  • 1 pt light chicken stock
  • grated zest of 2 oranges
  • sea salt
  • black pepper
  • 1 tbsp fresh orange juice

Method

Melt the butter over medium heat and sweat the onion until soft (about 5 minutes) without colouring. Add the carrots and sweat these for a further 10 minutes also without colouring. Toss in the grated orange zest, stir and sweat for a minute or two. Now add the chicken stock, increase the heat and bring it to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 30 minutes.

Liquidize the soup and, if necessary, thin it to the required consistency with a little water. Warm the soup back up to serving temperature to season it. Taste first; the orange will seem to dominate before seasoning. Gradually add sea salt to taste. This will bring out the carrot flavour. Try to balance the carrot and orange flavours. Add a few twists of black pepper . Adding a splash of orange juice will give a distinctly fresh zing but be careful not to over do it.


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Braised Fennel

This makes a great accompaniment to fish and chicken (not together!) dishes. I use chicken stock for the braising but a vegetable stock could be used. This recipe also works well for chicory but halve the cooking time.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 40 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 oz butter
  • 2 bulbs fennel
  • 10 fl oz stock (chicken or vegetable), hot
  • juice of ½ lemon
  • pepper

Method

In a small sauté pan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Trim the fennel bulbs and cut them in half lengthwise to expose the narrow dimension. Seal the cut side of the fennel in the butter for a minute or two then add the hot stock. Add a few grindings of black pepper to the fennel. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer the fennel for about 40 minutes. (I like it quite soft; adjust it to your preference.)Strain the fennel from the braising liquid and serve.


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Bouillabaisse

This is based upon a recipe from The Cooking of Provincial France by Time Life books. My basis for the bouillon is always a mixture of whatever fish stocks I happen to have in the freezer at the time. The addition of some canned tomatoes makes up for the relatively low level of flavour in many fresh ones. If you have confidence in your fresh tomatoes, use more and omit the canned ones.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 1½ hrs

Ingredients

  • 2 large onions thinly sliced
  • 4 leeks thinly sliced
  • 3 fl. oz. olive oil
  • 1½ pts. fish stock
  • 15 fl. oz. dry white wine
  • 1½ lbs. fresh tomatoes
  • 14 oz. can tomatoes
  • ½ tsp. fennel seeds crushed
  • 1 tsp chopped garlic
  • 2 strips orange peel
  • 1 tsp dried thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ¼ tsp crushed saffron threads
  • salt and pepper
  • 3 lbs. mixed fish (e.g. red snapper, red mullet, rock eel, haddock, hake, halibut)
  • 1 crab
  • 6 jumbo prawns
  • 1 lb. shellfish (e.g. mussels, scallops)
  • salt and pepper

Method

First, make the bouillon. (This can be done ahead of time.) Remove the meat from the crab, break up and reserve the shell. (Use the crab meat to make a starter!) Trim any whole fish being used and reserve the trimmings. Soften the onions and leeks in the olive oil for about five minutes without browning in a very large, heavy casserole. Add the fish stock, wine, tomatoes (both fresh and canned), herbs and seasonings. Add the reserved fish trimmings and the crab shell. Simmer uncovered over moderate heat for about an hour. Strain the bouillon through a chinois pressing well to extract every drop of flavour. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper as necessary to taste.

Begin reheating the bouillon about 20 minutes before serving. When boiling, add the firmest and thickest of the fish and continue boiling for about 5 minutes. Then add the shellfish, prawns and any very soft or thin fish and boil for another 5 minutes.

To serve, remove the fish and shellfish from the soup and arrange them on a heated dish. Pour a ladle or two of the soup over the fish to keep it moist. Ladle large helpings of soup and fish into soup plates at the table. Aioli sauce is a must along with warm French bread and cold French white wine!


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Bolognese Sauce

This has developed from a combination of recipes in the Encyclopædia of European Cookery and the Marshall Cavendish Handbook of Good Cooking . It is the basis for Spaghetti Bolognese (of course) and for Lasagne Bolognese. I always make twice this quantity ‘cos it’s a great freezer standby.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 3 hrs

Ingredients

  • 4 tbs olive oil
  • 4 oz green streaky bacon, chopped
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 1 carrot, diced
  • 1 stick celery, diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 lb minced beef
  • 4 oz chicken livers, trimmed and chopped
  • 4 fl oz dry white wine
  • 4 oz mushrooms, diced
  • 14 oz can plum tomatoes
  • 1 tsp dried marjoram
  • salt and pepper

Method

Heat the olive oil in a heavy based pan large enough to take all the ingredients and in it, cook the bacon pieces until lightly browned. Add the diced onion, carrot and celery and fry until tender and just beginning to colour. Add the garlic, stir and cook for about 30 seconds more. Add the minced beef and, stirring to break up the lumps, brown it together with the bacon and vegetables. Once the beef is browned, add the chicken livers and cook for a further 2 or 3 mins just to set them. Pour in the wine and bring to the boil to drive off the alcohol. Whiz the tomatoes in a food processor, together with their juice, and stir this into the pan. Add the marjoram and stir again. Bring back to the boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer very gently for about 1 hour.

Add the mushrooms and stir thoroughly to combine. Cover and continue simmering gently for about another hour.

Now it should be tasting like a bolognese. Season to taste with salt (careful because of the bacon) and freshly ground black pepper, and stir well. Simmer for another hour. If the sauce seems too loose, simmer it uncovered to reduce the liquid. If too thick, add a little water to thin it and simmer it covered.

Serve over spaghetti or make into Lasagne Bolognese.


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