This is basically Paul Prudhomme’s crawfish etouffée from his Louisiana Kitchen made with large prawns, which are a more readily available substitute for rarely seen freshwater crayfish. (One day, I must make a crayfish trap for use in the local canal.) I’ve also calmed down the heat a little by reducing the cayenne pepper. If you would like it hotter, you know what to do.
I’ve reduced the amount of flour in the roux a little and it still seems very high. Fear not; there is a reason: the more (i.e. darker) the flour gets cooked, the more it looses its thickening properties. Since this should be a dark roux, it needs more flour to thicken it. Making a darker roux without burning the flour takes a little faith and practice but do have a go. Try a little less at first, if you want. Once experienced, you could try increasing the flour content to the original recipe level of 75g.
Planning
| serves: |
4 |
| preparation time: |
15 mins |
| cooking time: |
20 mins |
Ingredients
- Seasoning mix:1 tsp sea salt1 tsp cayenne pepper½ tsp white pepper½ tsp black pepper2 tsp dried basil1 tsp dried thyme
- 40g onions, finely chopped
- 40g celery, finely chopped
- 40g green pepper, finely chopped
- 4 tbsp groundnut oil
- 60g plain flour
- 700ml seafood stock
- 40 large prawns, raw & prepared
- 200g butter
- 1 bunch spring onions, finely chopped
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Method
Start by combining the seasoning mix and dividing it evenly between two small containers. Then combine the chopped onion, celery and green pepper in a bowl.
Now the tricky part – making the roux (a.k.a. cajun napalm). A cast iron skillet is best, preferably of a light interior colour so you can see the colour change. Be very careful not to splash yourself or anyone else. Heat the oil over high heat almost to smoking point. Prepare to stir immediately with a wooden flat bladed spatula and toss in the flour. Stirring constantly and making sure to scrape all the flour from the bottom of the pan all the time, continue cooking while the mixture darkens to a red-brown colour which should take about 3 – 5 mins. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the chopped onion, celery and geen pepper mix together with one portion of the seasoning mix. Continue stirring until the mixture cools.
Bring the seafood stock to simmering point and stir in the roux mixture whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Reduce the heat to low and cook the thickened mixture for a few minutes, stirring constantly, to cook out the flour taste. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In another pan, melt 100g of the butter over medium heat and sauté the prawns and chopped spring onions for a minute. Add the thickened stock mixture and the remaining portion of seasoning mix. Stir well and cook gently for about three minutes; the prawns should be just cooked. Add the remaining 100g butter and stir or shake the pan gently until the butter dissolves (about a minute).
Serve surrounding mounds of cajun rice.
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My version, Anglicized, freshened up (real garlic instead of garlic powder) and cooked differently, of Paul Prudhomme’s “Basic Rice” in Louisiana Kitchen . This is a very necessary accompaniment to Shrimp Etouffée. I like to mould it in ramekins lined with cling film and make a neat mound of rice surrounded by the Shrimp Etouffée.
Planning
| serves: |
4
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| preparation time: |
10 mins
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| cooking time: |
15 mins
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Ingredients
- 8 oz long grain rice, washed to remove starch
- 16 fl oz stock (seafood if accompanying shrimps)
- 1 tbs onion, very finely chopped
- 1 tbs celery, very finely chopped
- 1 tbs green pepper, very finely chopped
- 1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
- pinch cayenne pepper
- pinch black pepper
- salt
- 1 tbs butter
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Method
Bring the stock to the boil in a small/medium pan and add all the ingredients except the butter. Bring the rice back to the boil and simmerverygently until the rice is cooked. (Take care not to burn it – add a little more stock if necessary.) Gently stir in the butter trying not to break the grains.
[Depending on the rice, all or most of the liquid should have been absorbed. If not, leave it to stand while cooling and it see if that absorbs it. As a last resort, drain it and adjust the liquid for next time.]
If you’re feeling fancy, line four ramekins with cling film and pack them (not too firmly) with rice. Fold the excess cling film over the top. The ramekins can be prepared ahead of time and very successfully reheated in “the dreaded microwave” when required. To serve, use kitchen scissors to snip off the covering cling film, invert a plate over the top of each ramekin and flip both right side up. The moulded rice should release cleanly onto the plate with no more than a gentle tap.
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This mixture became one of our staples while house-sitting for a friend in Tomales, California, hence the name. The avocado and tomato flavours blend very well together and make a good accompaniment to grilled fish or meats. Since it was well received by our hosts, I thought I’d document it.(Repeated uses of the word organic are a tongue-in-cheek nod to the fact that absolutely everything in the Tomales area seemed to be organic. Please feel free to use regular, affordable ingredients. I do.)
Planning
| serves: |
4 |
| preparation time: |
10 mins |
| cooking time: |
n/a |
Ingredients
- 1 very small garlic clove
- salt
- 3 tbs extra virgin olive oil
- rainbow pepper corns
- 1 tbs dark balsamic vinegar
- 200g organic salad leaves (we like a mixture)
- 4 medium organic tomatoes
- 2 organic avocados
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Method
First make the dressing. Crush the garlic clove with a pinch of salt and mix it into the balsamic vinegar. Let it infuse for about five minutes before adding a few twists of ground rainbow pepper and the olive oil. Shake it together to blend.
Put the leaves in a suitable salad bowl. Cut each tomato into eight segments lengthwise and add them to the leaves. Cut each avocado in half and remove the stones. Using a dessert spoon, scoop out relatively fine, roughly half-moon-shaped pieces and add these to the salad bowl. (Don’t do this too far ahead of time ‘cos it’ll discolour.)
Immediately before serving, remix the dressing and dress the salad.
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Caesar Salad is, in my opinion, one of the World’s great salads and one of America’s contributions to haute cuisine . Apart from the crispness of the Cos/Romaine lettuce used, this really stands or falls on the dressing. This dressing comes from Delia Smith’s Summer Collection from the days when she cooked properly instead of “cheating” (so sad and such a complete travesty). In fact, this dressing is the reason I bought the book.
Planning
| serves: |
4 |
| preparation time: |
15 mins |
| cooking time: |
n/a |
Ingredients
- 50 g crustless white bread cut into 1cm cubes
- 1-2 tbs olive oil
- 1 rounded tbs Parmesan cheese, finely grated
- 1 clove garlic, crushed
- 1 (very) large egg
- 1 clove garlic, peeled
- juice of 1 lime
- 1 heaped tsp mustard powder
- ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce
- 150 ml olive oil
- 40 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated
- salt & pepper
- 2 hearts of Cos/Romaine lettuce
- 1 x 50 g tin anchovy fillets, drained (but keep the oil for the dressing)
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Method
First make some croûtons. Preheat the oven ot 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Place the cubes of bread in a bowl and stir in 1-2 tbs olive oil, the crushed garlic glove and one tbs Parmesan grated cheese. Now spread the croûtons on a baking sheet lined with foil and bake them high in the oven for 10 minutes. Keep watching so that they do not burn. Remove them and let them cool.
Now make the all-important dressing. Break the egg into the bowl of a food processor (a small one is best). Add the garlic clove, 2 anchovy fillets, lime juice, mustard powder and Worcestershire sauce. Blitz that all together until smooth then, keeping the processor running, drizzle in the anchovy oil and olive oil through the feeder funnel. When all the oil is incorporated you should have an emulsified sauce about the consistency of pouring cream. If it’s a little too thick, slacken it slightly by whisking in some water. Season it with salt and pepper to taste.
Break up the lettuce leaves into a serving bowl. Snip in the remaining anchovy fillets (having separated them first, of course) and mix to distribute them. When you are ready to serve, pour over some salad dressing and toss thoroughly to coat the leaves. (You should not need all the dressing.) Sprinkle in the Parmesan, toss again, and scatter over the croûtons.
This makes a great starter. For a variation and to turn it into a more substantial meal for lunch, say, try serving it topped with grilled chicken breasts cut into fine strips. For some real fun, use Cajun blackened chicken breasts.
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Roasted red peppers and tomatoes are natural companions. This accompanies plain grilled or pan-fried fish fillets very well.
Planning
| serves: |
2 |
| preparation time: |
10 mins |
| cooking time: |
20 mins |
Ingredients
- 1 large red pepper
- 2 plum tomatoes
- 1 mild red chilli
- 10-12 leaves basil
- 1 clove garlic
- olive oil
- salt
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Method
Remove the pith and seeds from the red pepper, split it in half and flatten it. Grill under highest possible heat until the skin blisters and blackens. Put it in a bowl covered with cling film and let it steam for a few minutes. (This helps release the skin.) Skin it and cut into fine dice.
Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for a minute and skin them. Deseed the tomatoes and cut these into fine dice also.
Top, tail and deseed the red chilli and chop it finely.
Add these three ingredients to a bowl and tear in the basil leaves. Skin the garlic clove and grate it into the mixture.
To use it cold, add the olive oil and salt to taste at this stage and mix all to combine the flavours. Chill until required.
Alternatively, you can use it warmed: add the olive oil to a small skillet and warm it over gentle heat. Add the salsa ingredients and stir constantly to warm it through. Be careful not to cook it.
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I don’t know whether this has an official name but I call it this because I was introduced to the basic idea in Richmond, Virginia whilst visiting friends. It’s quite a rich combination so I think it makes a better starter than it does a main course but that’s up to you. For a main course, increase the quantities accordingly.
Planning
| serves: |
4 |
| preparation time: |
30 mins |
| cooking time: |
15 mins |
Ingredients
- 1 large red pepper
- 8 oz scallops (preferably without the roe)
- 5 fl oz whipping cream
- 1 oz butter
- pinch of nutmeg
- 8 oz fettucine (preferably black but white will do)
- salt and pepper
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Method
Trim the scallops if necessary and halve each to form two thinner discs of meat.
Roast the red pepper (I flatten them out and put them close to a very hot grill) and skin them. Cut the flesh into thin strips (about ¼ cm).
Melt the butter over medium heat in a sauté pan and sweat the red pepper strips for about five minutes without colouring them further. (While these are cooking, you can get the boiling water ready for the pasta.) Add the scallop discs and cook them gently for 2 – 3 minutes stirring occasionally. Sprinkle in the nutmeg (don’t overdo it) and stir in the cream. Bring it to a gentle simmer, season with salt and pepper and it’s ready.
Cook the pasta in salted water according to its own instructions. Drain the pasta and mix in a little of the scallop/cream liquid Divide it into portions and pour the scallops and red peppers on top.
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